Market Blooms for Tujia Ethnic Minority's Flowery Threads

A woman works on Tujia brocade at a studio in Enshi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture in central China's Hubei Province on June 2. [Xinhua/Song Wen]

Thousands of handmade brocade products produced in Enshi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture in central China's Hubei Province are shipped to markets across the world each year.

Tujia brocade is known locally as Xilanpuka, literally "flower brocaded bedspread", and is a symbol of the Tujia ethnic minority's skill and wisdom. The fabric can be made into cushion covers and pillow cases, among other things.

Xilankapu is hand-woven on a narrow lathe loom with a red, blue, black, white and yellow thread warp and multi-colored silk, cotton or wool weft.

Traditional patterns fall under three broad headings: images of nature, geometric patterns and designs relating to Tujia daily life. Through such fine patterns and handicraft, people can catch a glimpse of the Tujia people's culture.

Weaving Xilankapu is an essential skill for Tujia girls. They learn it from their mothers or older sisters from the ages of 11-12 years old. The number of works they can produce and their techniques are both considered indicators of a weaver's character and skill. Xilankapu is the main feature of a traditional Tujia dowry. The Xilankapu wedding dress is finished by a Tujia bride-to-be the night before her ceremony, and it is likely the most valuable and beautiful object she will ever own.

In 2006, the brocade was named by China as a national intangible cultural heritage.

Since then, many factories have sprung up across the region to manufacture Tujia brocade in order to meet the high market demand.

The factories there, with professional designers, systematic training, mass production and modern sales channels, not only provide job opportunities to local people, but also help pass down the unique craft.

A woman checks the quality of Tujia brocade products at a studio in Enshi Tujia and Miao Autonomous Prefecture in central China's Hubei Province on June 2. [Xinhua/Song Wen]

(Source: Xinhua/Translated and edited by Women of China)