He Jing will never forget the significance of 9:10 a.m. on October 9, 2024. Why? That was the exact time He, 36, became the first Chinese climber to reach the summit of all of the world's 14 peaks over 8,000 meters without supplementary oxygen. She accomplished that feat by reaching the peak — 8,027 meters — of Mount Shishapangma, located in Nyalam County, under Xigaze, a city in southwest China's Xizang Autonomous Region, on October 9. He says the feat was her personal way of celebrating the 75th anniversary of the founding of the People's Republic of China. Throughout the years, He overcame unimaginable difficulties, through her relentless efforts, and she always exhibited great courage and strength as she achieved her numerous climbing feats.

Passion

Oxygen-free climbing refers to the process of scaling a mountain, from beginning to end, without using supplementary oxygen (an oxygen tank). It is a formidable test of endurance, especially at altitudes above 8,000 meters. What motivated He to complete the daunting challenge? Her love for climbing. 

He was born in the Guanzhong Plain of northwest China's Shaanxi Province, a region of China known for flat plains, so she didn't have the opportunity to see a mountain until she was 18. That was in 2006, when she arrived at the Qinling Mountains, in another region of Shaanxi. Her passion for the sport was born. Since then, He has participated in various outdoor sports, including hiking and mountain climbing. 

In 2012, while grieving the loss of her grandmother, He attempted her first climb of a mountain with a peak above 5,000 meters — Mount Siguniang, in southwest China's Sichuan Province. The experience provided her with a sense of peace and relief. "As I approached the summit, and as I saw the rosy light on the snow, I felt so small, and the world seemed so vast. It was as if all of life's worries just melted away," He recalls. 

Since then, He has climbed nearly every major snow-capped mountain in China. Each summit has offered her a unique view, and every climb has given her a new emotional experience. "Climbing brings me joy," she says.

Mount Shishapangma

In the world, there are 14 peaks that rise above 8,000 meters. He began her "oxygenfree-climbing odyssey" in 2017. She reached the summit of Manaslu (in Nepal) that year. She scaled Makalu (in the Himalayas, on the China-Nepal border) in 2018, Annapurna (in Nepal) in 2019, Dhaulagiri (in Nepal) in 2021, and Qomolangma and Lhotse (both on the China-Nepal border), and Qogir (K2) and Broad Peak (both on the China-Pakistan border) in 2022. She went on to conquer Kanchenjunga (on the India-Nepal border), Nanga Parbat (in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan), Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum I (both on the China-Pakistan border), and Cho Oyu (on the China-Nepal border) in 2023. Conquering Mount Shishapangma was the final peak in He's incredible journey. 

Mount Shishapangma is the only mountain with a peak above 8,000 meters situated entirely within China. To many mountaineers, compared with the other 8,000-meter-plus peaks, it is more dangerous and challenging to climb Shishapangma. 

The weather conditions concerned He during the climb. It was windy from October 2-7, and He had not encountered such weather during her previous climbs. The steep terrain also tested He's patience, and her skills. When facing extreme oxygen deprivation, a person is likely to fall asleep. He managed to stay awake, but she felt enormous pain and dizziness as she ascended the mountain. She remained undaunted, and she reminded herself of her years-long journey. She was determined to let her willpower prevail. 

He eventually conquered Mount Shishapangma, on October 9, at which time she became the third woman — and first Chinese — in the world to scale all 14 peaks above 8,000 meters without using an oxygen tank. 

Decade-Long Journey

In 2012, He began climbing snow-capped mountains. After scaling 5,000-, 6,000-, and 7,000-meter peaks, He set her sights on 8,000-meter mountains. She conquered her first 8,000-meter summit in 2016, when she reached the peak of Cho Oyu. Despite carrying two oxygen bottles, she only used one. "After Cho Oyu, I felt strong enough to try without oxygen. I wanted to see if I could do it," He explains. In 2017, then-29-year-old He went abroad, for the first time, and she scaled Manaslu — without supplementary oxygen. A year later, He conquered the 8,463-meter Makalu, and then she decided to scale Mount Qomolangma. 

In 2021, He attempted to climb Mount Qomolangma without supplementary oxygen. "The year 2021 marked the centenary of the founding of the Communist Party of China. I wanted to do something for my country," He recalls. Unfortunately, she missed the "weather window" for the final summit push, and she had to turn back. It was a devastating blow. In Kathmandu, capital of Nepal, she bought a map and set off on foot toward Mount Qomolangma. As the mountain came into view, her emotions overwhelmed her. "At that moment, I realized this was what I was meant to do. I had to give myself a chance. If you don't even try, that's the real failure," she says. 

He trained for the climb by running a half marathon every day, and she allowed herself time to think about what climbing meant to her. In March 2022, He set off again to conquer Qomolangma, and, in May, she succeeded. He became the first Chinese woman to reach the peak of Mount Qomolangma without supplementary oxygen. Conquering Qomolangma marked the 10-year anniversary of He's decision to climb snow-capped mountains. During that decade, He continued to push her limits. 

Keep Climbing

What will He do now that she has completed her monumental challenge? Will she continue climbing? "Of course. There are still many challenges ahead — new routes, off-season climbs," she says. In fact, He has a particular goal: To climb Mount Qomolangma from the north side again. 

"The year 2025 marks the 50th anniversary of the first Chinese woman reaching the summit of Mount Qomolangma. In 1975, China's Pan Duo became the first woman to reach the summit from the north side. I want to do something to honor her. The history of Chinese mountaineering is a difficult one, and we should never forget those who came before us. I believe there will be more excellent Chinese climbers in the future, more people trying new things and pushing boundaries. I also hope my story will inspire other women to pursue their goals," He says.

Photos from Interviewee

Sources: Xinhua, China Daily and Women of China

(Women of China English Monthly January 2025)

Editor: Wang Shasha